Sneakers: how to choose

How to choose sneakers

Start with the line you want beside your ankle. A low-top cut sits below the ankle and leaves the foot looking neat, which suits straight-leg denim, midi skirts and cotton dresses. If you prefer a flat, close-to-the-ground step, look at the white canvas low-top and dad shapes; if you want a little lift, the platform pairs raise the sole by 3-5 cm or, in the chunky styles, 6-8 cm. A mid heel of 3-5 cm on a leather platform gives height without the pitch of a heel, while a low profile under 3 cm keeps the step grounded.

Look at the toe and the opening next. A rounded toe leaves room across the front of the foot, and a deep opening holds the foot securely; a shallow opening gives a closer, neater line under the ankle. Lace-up fronts let you adjust the fit across the instep, which is useful if you like a close fit over the top of the foot but room in the toe. Cross straps and cross-over laces add structure without changing the low, easy shape.

For sizing, take your usual EU size, or measure the insole of a shoe that fits you well and compare it with the chart: 22.5 cm in a 35 rising to 26 cm in a 42. Some styles are sized from 34 to 40, with the round toe and low upper shaping the fit. If you wear a thin sock in summer and a thicker knit sock in winter, compare the insole measurement rather than guessing from the number alone.

Materials, details and fit

Canvas and denim give the most casual surface. White canvas is smooth and matte, cut plain across the foot with no logos or contrast panels, so the shape stays crisp. Denim brings a soft, matte texture that pairs as easily with faded jeans as with a cotton midi skirt. Where mesh is worked into the upper, it adds panels of breathable mesh for air in warmer months, and a mesh lining lets air move around the foot on warm afternoons.

Leather changes the character. A top layer cowhide upper has a smooth, supple hand; cowhide shapes a clean, rounded upper; and a cow two-layer leather film gives a smooth, structured surface. Inside, you may find a soft cotton lining, a cloth lining, a microfiber lining or artificial short plush, with an artificial leather insole sitting smoothly underfoot. A lined shoe feels softer against the foot, and the lining is part of what makes a pair comfortable from morning errands to a late coffee.

Underfoot, the sole sets the stride. Rubber soles sit low and flat on the canvas pairs, while thick rubber and polyurethane soles give the platform and chunky styles their shape and structure. A sewn sole construction gives the base a sturdy, considered finish, and an injection-moulded rubber sole forms a flat platform under a low-top. Check the heel height in the details, from under 3 cm on a low-profile pair to 3-5 cm or 6-8 cm on a platform, and choose the lift that matches the day ahead.

How to style them

White canvas is the most versatile place to begin. Wear the dad or low-top shape with straight-leg jeans and a plain tee, or let it finish a cotton dress and a midi skirt without arguing with the print. The plain surface also slips under a wide trouser leg, so you can pair a clean white sneaker with tailoring for a softer, more grounded line than a formal shoe. Keep the canvas clean and the laces simple, and the look stays crisp.

Leather and platform pairs carry more weight. A beige leather platform with a rounded toe works with denim and tailoring alike, while black cowhide low-tops move from desk to dinner with a knit and straight-leg trousers. The chunky 6-8 cm platform styles sit well with cropped trousers, midi skirts and denim, because the low-cut upper keeps the ankle free and stops the silhouette feeling heavy. A denim platform low-top is an easy match for faded jeans and a cotton midi skirt, with a flat heel that keeps the shape casual.

Use colour with a little intention. Deep wine red contrast blocks and embroidered stitching give a low-profile sneaker depth against denim, tailoring and midi skirts. White, black, beige and blue are calm foundations; green, red and pink can be the note that lifts a simple outfit. If the rest of your look is plain, one coloured pair is enough; if you are wearing pattern, keep the sneaker quiet and let the clothes speak.

Care and storage

Canvas and mesh need little more than a soft brush and a mild soap solution. Brush off dry dirt first, then wipe the upper with a damp cloth and a little soap, working gently around the toe and the eyelets. Rinse the cloth and wipe again, then let the pair air dry away from direct heat or a radiator; do not put canvas or mesh in a tumble dryer. Stuff the toe with tissue while they dry to hold the shape.

Leather benefits from a soft, dry cloth after wear. Wipe away dust and light marks, and keep the pair away from prolonged damp and direct heat, which can dull the surface. Store leather sneakers with a little tissue or a shoe tree inside to keep the rounded toe in shape, and give them room in the cupboard rather than compressing them under other shoes. If the lining becomes damp, let the pair air dry fully before you wear them again.

For all pairs, rotate what you wear so each pair has time to air between outings. Keep white canvas away from dark denim on damp days, and store sneakers in a dry cupboard rather than a damp porch or bathroom. A simple dust bag or a clean shelf is enough; the aim is to let the shoe hold its shape and dry naturally between wears.

Standout pieces

• White Canvas Dad Sneakers: A plain white canvas sneaker on a rubber sole with a roomy rounded toe and a clean line that sits easily with tailoring, denim and midi skirts.
• Mesh-Lined Chunky Platform Sneakers: A chunky 6-8 cm platform, low-cut upper and mesh lining give this pair a lifted stride with air around the foot.
• Denim Platform Low-Top Sneaker: A denim upper, raised rubber sole and flat heel make this low-top a casual choice with a little lift and a cloth lining against the foot.