Heels: how to choose

How to choose heels

Begin with the occasion and how long you will be on your feet. A fine stiletto gives a clean, lifted line for dinners, weddings and evenings, while a thick or square heel steadies the step for commuting, long days and winter pavements. If you plan to stand for hours, look at the lower end of the heel heights in our pieces, such as the 6.5cm leather pumps or the low square heel on the suede side-zip boots. If the evening is mostly seated, a slender 9cm or 11.5cm heel can feel right.

The toe shape changes the line as much as the heel. A pointed toe draws a long, clean line from ankle to toe, as on the suede pointed-toe stiletto heels and the pointed-toe fine heel ankle boots. A round toe keeps the shape calm and wearable, as on the suede over-the-knee low-heel boots and the suede side-zip high boots. A peep toe or open toe lightens the front of the foot for evening, while a closed court shape reads sharper for ceremonies and formal dinners.

Think about the strap and fastening before you commit. An ankle strap holds the line but sits close to the ankle, so check the fit before you fasten the back zip. A shallow vamp holds the foot toward the pointed toe, which can feel close across the top of the foot. Side zips make tall boots easier to put on, and adjustable buckle straps let you set the fit across the instep. If you are between sizes, read the individual fit note: some styles in the 34-39 range run smaller than EU and US sizing, so take the larger size.

Materials, details and fit

Across the pieces in this guide, uppers and linings vary, and each changes how the shoe feels and how it should be worn. Smooth leather gives structure, as on the leather mid-calf boots and the 6.5cm leather pumps. Suede has a brushed, matte nap that absorbs light, so black reads deep and brown reads warm. Patent leather brings a mirror-like sheen, while satin has a soft, faintly lustrous surface and PU gives a smooth, lightly polished finish.

Inside, you will find linings such as sheepskin, microfibre, super fibre, PU and imitation leather, depending on the style. Soles are rubber on many pieces, with a cow tendon sole on the 6.5cm leather pumps. A platform detail can soften the pitch: the black suede stiletto pumps use a 1cm front platform under an 11.5cm heel, and the rhinestone satin heels use a slim 0.5cm platform under a 9cm heel. These construction details matter more than heel height alone.

Fit is best judged at the ankle, instep and toe. On a peep-toe with an ankle strap, check that the strap sits close without pressing and that the back zip closes neatly. On a shallow vamp, make sure the foot is held toward the pointed toe without the top edge cutting in. For tall boots, the shaft rises above the knee on the over-the-knee styles; choose your usual size and check the fit against a pair you already own if you prefer a closer line. The boot notes for the side-zip high style list sizes 34 to 43, with your usual size for a close fit along the shaft.

How to style them

Let the shoe set the mood of the outfit. The black suede stiletto pumps work beside silk, wool or denim, so they can finish a wedding guest outfit or a dinner that runs late. The rhinestone satin stiletto heels and pearl rhinestone court shoes are evening pieces: keep the rest of the look quiet and let the shine at the front do the work. The patent peep-toe heel with ankle strap is a clean choice for dinners and weddings, especially in white, red, blue, silver or gold.

For daylight and working days, lean on leather and suede. The leather mid-calf boots with thick heel sit well under tailored trousers or a midi skirt, and the thick heel keeps the step steady through a commute and a long dinner. The pointed-toe fine heel ankle boots sharpen a plain trouser or soft midi skirt, while the suede side-zip high boots with low heel carry you from autumn into winter with a round toe and a low square heel. The 6.5cm leather high heel pumps in black or off white are a poised middle ground between a flat and a high stiletto.

Over-the-knee boots change the proportion of a dress or skirt. The suede over-the-knee low-heel boots give a long line from above the knee to a low thick heel, and the over-the-knee suede boots with square heel use elastic in the shaft to follow the calf. Wear them with a hem that meets or sits just above the boot, or with a long knit dress that falls over the shaft. The pointed suede stiletto heels are the pair for wide-leg trousers at a working lunch or a slip dress after work.

Care and storage

Suede needs a little routine. Let it dry naturally away from direct heat if it gets damp, then brush the nap gently with a soft suede brush to lift the surface. Store suede away from rough edges that can mark the nap, and keep tall shafts supported so they do not crease along the front. A protective spray made for suede can help with everyday marks, but test it on a small hidden area first.

Leather and patent are simpler. Wipe patent with a soft, slightly damp cloth and dry it with a clean cloth; avoid leaving patent pressed against other colours for long periods. For smooth leather, remove dust with a soft brush or cloth, then use a leather cream sparingly if the surface looks dry. Keep the shape of pumps and ankle boots with tissue paper or a soft shoe tree, and store them away from direct sunlight.

Satin, rhinestones and pearl details need a gentler hand. Brush dust away with a soft cloth, avoid snagging the stones on zips or hooks, and store each pair in a dust bag so the surface does not rub against other shoes. Check the heel tips and soles from time to time, and have worn tips replaced before they reach the upper. Rotate your pairs through the week so each has time to air and rest.

Standout pieces

• Black Suede-Look Stiletto Heel Pumps: An 11.5 cm stiletto in soft black suede, balanced by a 1 cm front platform for a steadier pitch through a long evening.
• Mid-Calf Boots with Thick Heel: Smooth leather rises to mid-calf over a thick heel and rubber sole, with beige and black colourways for working days and long evenings.
• Rhinestone Satin Stiletto Heels: Satin, scattered rhinestones and a 9 cm stiletto on a slim 0.5 cm platform give this open-toe pair a light, evening-ready line.
• Suede Over-the-Knee Low-Heel Boots: Suede runs above the knee to a low thick heel, with side zips, a leather insole and leather lining for an easy, grounded line.
• 6.5cm Leather High Heel Pumps: First layer cow leather shapes a clean 6.5 cm heel, grounded by a cow tendon sole, in black or off white.