Long coats: how to choose

How to choose long coats

Begin with the line you want down the body. A long coat can fall past the hip, at the knee, past the knee or at the ankle, and each length changes how the coat works with what you wear underneath. The Plaid Longline Coat with Pockets falls past the hip, while the Long Single-Breasted Lapel Coat with Pockets falls past the knee; the Alpaca Blend Longline Knit Cardigan Coat reaches the ankle with a weighted drape. Think about your usual days: a shorter longline is easy over tailoring and denim, while a longer sweep gives more coverage over dresses and knitwear.

Next, decide whether you want the waist defined. A belted trench or coat draws the shape in, and the belt can be tied snug or left loose. The Belted Double-Breasted Trench Coat uses a double-breasted front and belt to define the waist, while the Long Belted Winter Coat has a suit collar, concealed buttons and a tie belt. A straight or relaxed cut skims the body instead: the Long Single-Breasted Lapel Coat with Pockets is cut straight, and the Long Knit Sweater Coat has a loose silhouette with an unhurried drape. Neither approach is better; they simply suit different layers and different moods.

Materials, details and fit

The fabric sets the weight and the way the coat hangs. Our long coats include knit, polyester, denim, cotton, faux fur, wool and leather, with matte finishes across the pieces. Polyester appears in several trenches and in the Plaid Longline Coat with Pockets, where a mid-weight shell holds its line over a jumper. The Alpaca Blend Longline Knit Cardigan Coat is handknit with a faint halo and a 1170g weight, and the Longline Hooded Down Coat with Fur Collar uses white duck down inside an acetate blend shell with a low-sheen finish. The Longline British-Style Trench Coat has a 1150g weight and handmade construction, which gives the cloth presence.

Details do practical work as well as visual work. Pockets sit at the hip on the Long Single-Breasted Lapel Coat with Pockets and the Plaid Longline Coat with Pockets; the Longline Hooded Down Coat with Fur Collar has a full-length zip and a fixed fur-framed hood. Buttons run in one row on the single-breasted coat and in a double-breasted arrangement on the trench styles. A belt is there to be used: tie it to draw the waist, or leave it open so the front hangs straight.

Fit notes matter most when you plan to layer. The Long Belted Winter Coat is cut slim, so take your usual size for a close fit and go up one if you plan to layer knitwear underneath. Straight and roomy cuts are more forgiving: the Long Single-Breasted Lapel Coat with Pockets is roomy enough for a fine knit or shirt, and the Long Knit Sweater Coat is loose through the body with a straight drop from shoulder to hem. If a coat is cut loose and long, take your usual size for an easy drape or size down for a closer line.

How to style them

Start with the coat's own line and let the rest follow. A belted trench in red, black or khaki looks direct over knitwear, tailoring or a dress; fasten the double-breasted front and tie the belt, or leave it open for a straighter fall. The deep wine red Belted Double-Breasted Long Trench Coat has broad lapels and a long line with movement, so it can carry a simple polo neck and trousers without extra detail. If you want a quieter frame, choose a solid colour and keep the layers close in tone.

Long knit layers work best when the drape is allowed to show. The Alpaca Blend Longline Knit Cardigan Coat layers over office tailoring or weekend denim, and the Long Knit Sweater Coat settles over denim or dresses from early spring through cool evenings. Leave them open over a fine knit or shirt, or use the belt if the piece has one. For colder mornings, the Longline Hooded Down Coat with Fur Collar falls past the knee in a slim line, with a fixed hood and a full-length zip; it sits well over a fine knit and a straight trouser.

Pattern and texture can do the work of an accessory. The Plaid Longline Coat with Pockets carries a muted check in soft, grounded tones; keep the rest plain so the plaid reads clearly. The Longline British-Style Trench Coat is tailored and casual at once, so it works over a suit for the working day or a light knit for a weekend lunch. The Straight-Cut Mid-Length Trench Coat in brown, black or light khaki has a clean line that sits over knitwear, tailoring or a simple dress.

Care and storage

Always check the care label before you clean a long coat, and follow it for the specific fabric. Different fibres need different handling, and the label is the most reliable guide for the piece in your wardrobe. As a general habit, air a coat after wearing it and brush away surface dust with a soft brush, working in one direction. Let a damp coat dry naturally away from direct heat.

Storage protects the shape as much as the surface. Hang long coats on a sturdy, wide hanger so the shoulder line does not collapse, and leave space around them so the fabric is not crushed. Heavy knits are often better folded flat if the label advises it, while structured trenches and wool coats keep their line on a hanger. Keep fur trims and hoods clear of other garments, and store the coat clean rather than pressing it into a crowded rail.

For knit and brushed fabrics, a soft clothes brush and a little air are often enough between wears. For down-filled pieces, follow the label for washing and drying, and make sure the fill is fully dry before storing. A long coat takes up space in the wardrobe, so give it room and it will keep its line.

Standout pieces

• Belted Double-Breasted Trench Coat, Long: A long belted trench with a double-breasted front and lapel collar, offered in red, black or khaki in polyester.
• Long Belted Winter Coat: The Long Belted Winter Coat has a slim line, suit collar and tie belt, with concealed buttons keeping the front clean.
• Long Single-Breasted Lapel Coat with Pockets: A long single-breasted coat in one solid colour, cut straight with a lapel collar and side pockets at the hip.
• Alpaca Blend Longline Knit Cardigan Coat: A handknit alpaca blend cardigan coat in deep khaki, with a loose drape and a weighted 1170g knit.
• Longline Hooded Down Coat with Fur Collar: A long slim coat filled with white duck down, with a fixed fur-framed hood and a full-length zip.